Nocks can make a HUGE difference.

I learned that lesson back in Sept. 1996 (and remember the scenario vividly). I was shooting my Hoyt Raptor Carbonite w/ A-cams. I had set the bow up with AFC 2300 Accell pultruded carbons with their “pin nock” system. I had the bow tuned up really nice and it was spitting out the AFCs w/ Wasp SST 75s very accurately.

I was shooting it so well in fact that I was busting nocks left and right. The AFC nocks were very brittle/soft and would break with any kind of hit. I was making a order from Cabelas for some clothes and other garbage and noticed they had the AFC nocks, so I ordered a dozen.

Well I took off the rest of the old nocks, and installed the new ones the evening I got them, and did not shoot them for a few days. The day I did, I had broadheads careening and cartwheeling like you wouldn’t believe. I tried re-aligning for clearance, powder testing, check cam synch, shot field points..No matter what I could NOT get the broadheads to shoot. I was at a loss.

To make a long story short, I eventually realized I had inadvertently received the wrong throat size nocks (they made two). I reinstalled what old nocks I had left, and instant perfect broadhead flight. And the new nocks didn’t snap much harder than the originals. But that little bit of difference really screwed everything up.

I always change my G-nocks out after a few months now. They do get loose and in effect cause the arrow to act weaker (and too tight makes the arrow act stiffer)

I’m sure that you having the release up against the nock itself is causing premature wear or there is a chemical issue involved. Easton makes it pretty clear in their documentation what you can and cannot get on the shaft/nocks. The only thing they recommend for A/C/E or G-nocks is rubber cement if you want to lock them down. Acetone will screw them up (makes them soft). I found out that Bohning Fletch-Lac (for arrow dipping) will definitely put a hurtin’ on them too Turns the nock shank into jelly over time..