When I make new custom strings and cables, I set up my jig so that they will be at specs with approximately 1.5 twists per inch. I twist them to this and tension them and measure to ensure I am on spec. I can then make small adjustments if required, but with practice, I can usually be just about on the money. I twist prior to applying the servings. Then I apply the servings in the same direction as the twist (i.e if from the left side I have twisted counter-clockwise, I will serve left to right going ccw or over and away from me).

I am not sure what type of string your shop put on your bow, but you need to check the A-A, brace and poundage to make sure they are all where they should be and twist as required to bring them to specs. A lot of shops still stock fastfligh strings of rather poor quality.

If your bow is set up the way you like it, then you should mark your cam(s) and change one string or cable at a time and ensure that you get it to the marks before removing the next one, that way you will maintain it the way it was.

I am a proponent of a twisted string as it evens out force on the strands, particularly when they go around cams. If you ever want to see just how much an affect it can have, take the idler serving off a 1-cam bow and untwist it and put the string on and draw it -- you will see some strands with a lot of tension and other limp.

Bottom line is there is no standard to twist (although some manufactures will sully a new string and tell you how many twists that new string should initially have -- Parker does this). You are going to have to twist to requirements (within reason) to get your bow to specs and in you cam(s) timed, synched, balanced or whatever you want to call it.

Too bad about your local shop.