I'm sure the bow will work fine. Parkers are good bows.

I'm gonna give you some advice:
The first thing you need to make sure of is that the Draw weight and draw length are properly fitted for you. That is the most important thing of all. If they are not set right to you, then your not going to be shooting nearly as well as you should be. The people at the pro shop know this too but just in case they are buffoons, you should also know it. Your draw weight should be the heaviest that you can comfortable draw and hold. If you can pull back 60 pounds maximum (with all your strength) then a 50 pound bow should be good for you. You should be able to hold it for a couple minutes. The draw length should not be too long or too short but just right. They will help you find your correct length. Half an inch off will make a difference in your shooting.

Use a caliper style release aid. Put just one brass nock point above where your arrow is supposed to attach to the string. Nock the arrow directly under it and grab the string with the release aid directly under the arrow. It is simple and acurate. I would avoid string loop nocks or metal loop nocks. Simple brass bead nocks are what I prefer.

For arrows and arrow rests I prefer alluminum arrows but they need to be matched for your bow's draw weight and length. I would start with strait vaned arrows and a prong style arrow rests. You need o make sure that the cock vane is turned down so that there is no contact between fletching and arrow rest. Fletching contact will cause your arrows to fly really bad.

For sights, I prefer true glo fixed pin sights. You only need 3 or 4 pins. And for a peep sight, which works just like the rear sight of a rifle, some people prefer the tubeless sights but I really don't like them and prefer the peep sights that need the surgical tubing to line them up. you allways get a good circle to line the front sight through.

Don't get too technical. Don't try to shoot light arrows that fly really fast. 220 to 240 fps is fast enough. Your bow will arguably be more stable, acurate, easy to tune and more reliable with the slower arrows than with very fast arrows. Try to pick an arrow that weighs 7 or 8 grains per pound of draw weight.

All you need is
bow (properly matched for you)
arrows
release aid (caliper style)
sights
peep sight
field points (100 to 125 grain) broadheads should be the same weight
brass string nock
release aid
Target

And you can start shooting and if you have any questions on how to make your self more accurate, you can ask them here.

I would avoid single pin adjustable sights. You don't really need a hand sling on your bow. You probably don't need a stabilizer either but it's a good idea to get one after shooting for a bit just to see if it makes you more accurate.

I don't aprticularly like to use shelf style arrow rests but just because they need feather fletching to be accuate. The good thing about shelf style arrow rests is that you can shoot helical fletching. You cannot really shoot helical fletching on the prong style arrow rests.

TM hunter is the sheep end of prong arrow rest. NAP Quicktunes are all very good and are much easier to tune.

Hope that helps. Don't let them sell you too much stuff.
Oh yeah, yes I think it would be a good bow for a beginner alltho any bow these days will be a good bow for a beginner.