I am apprehensive about replying because I don't want anyone to get misinformed ! I'm also fairly a novice at tuning and just starting to apply some of the knowledge gained here !
But I'll tell you my quest and how I arrived where I am .........right or wrong !
I wanted my bow to be tuned as well as possible and achieve results described by many of the guys here ! Although I shoot mechanicals .....it stands to reason that if you can get fixed blades to shoot with field points at high speeds then your bow is tuned very well !
So my objective was to get this bow shooting good groups at all ranges and get my worst shooting fixed blades to be able to match up with my field points ! I was told it could be done....so I had to try !! I have been shooting for about 7 years seriously and have my release down good and pretty consistant form !
First was figuring out why I haven't been able to get broadheads to fly like FP's : After posting back and forth with Len.........came to the conclusion that I have never spent the time with my arrows (or really my bow ). I bought an arrow spinners and spun every arrow I have and was very surprised at how many I had to pull out or fix ! Some needed re-fletching......some a new nock....some went to the trash !
Then paper tuning : This was previously my only form of tuning ! So I get a bullet hole at point blank with the WB. But 5shot told me one day about false bullet holes at point blank with the WB. So I did as suggested and back up about 10 steps and got a left tear ! Like I said I adjusted it out ! Normally this is where I would have felt my bow was tuned well........but I have learned a lot from these guys ! I think it was 5shot or Len or both.....that also told me to paper tune all of my arrows and not just one !!
So then I started group tuning (got from Arthur P and several others)! I shot groups at 20 and was on target with tight groups ! Switched to 40 yrds and had tight groups but left ! I adjusted the rest to the right and pulled my groups closer to the bullseye but they went slightly right ! Tried some broadheads to see where they hit and they hit right ! So I adjusted back a little left and shot a group just on the left edge of dead center bullseye. So I came back to 20 yrds and shot......just left of dead center bullseye. I made a slight sight adjustment left and hit dead center ! Backed up to 40 and nailed it........screwed on the broadheads and hit just under my group !
Tuesday afternoon I stretched my shots out to 65 yrds and hit about 3" left of the bulseye 5" group . Made a slight sight adjustment.....and next group was about 1.5-2" right of the bullseye . Made a micro type adjustment back left and had a 4 arrow group centered around the bullseye . Came back to 20 and shot dead on........went to 40 and was dead on.......went back to 65 and shot 8 groups af 4 arrows and had a smallest group of 3.5" and a largest of 5.5 " !!
Oh......and I had posted a thread a few weeks ago about tiller tuning and found out from Arthur P this seems to be most useful for holding on target while your drawing. I cranked my bow up all the way then backed down each limb about 3/4 of a turn. My bow pulled upwards as I drew .....so I increased my bottom limbs poundage a half turn ......then a little more and holy crap..........it holds practically on target all the way through my draw cycle ! Apparently you can adjust the bows tendancy to move upward or downward by adjusting the poundage up or down of the opposite limb .........and it doesn't take much !!
I don't know if all that helps or not........and not sure if I got everything exactly correct .......but that's what has helped me !!
