Sorry for the slow reply--been kinda busy lately! Anyhow......

With your set-up, you may not loose as much draw length as most. The general concensus when you shot compound with fingers you would loose an inch or two of draw length. I'm really not sure how a loop and release would figure into the equation. It will vary some on where you anchor, and you may gain a little bit of draw length as you develop your form and learn to use back tension. On the other hand, some advise shooting in a hunkered over stance, and that will shorten your draw vs. standing straight up. Different grips and bow designs will cause it to vary a little also. Gonna' be a hard call until you get your hands on a bow and do a little shooting, but most likely you will stay in the 28-29" range. It does matter, how much depends on the bow design and type. You don't want to go way long, as you will loose performance. If you go too short, you will have a bow that stacks and isn't as forgiving. How long the bow needs to be for you depends on the bow design. For instance, in some recurve styles you could shoot a 52", others might require a 62". In a longbow, with some you could go 58" or shorter, in others you might need a 68" or longer. Simple huh? lol The bowyer or dealer you buy from should be able to recommend the right length for you, or if you are looking at a used bow the folks here can probably help. You should be able to pick up a good used bow for less than $100, and you can get a great shooting custom (not fancy, but the deer won't care) starting at $200.

I very much agree with Ossage on the bow weight--it's better to get a double lung with 45# than a gut shot with 100#. 45# will take care of any whitetail, as long as you do your part.

Some people do have a problem switching back and forth between traditional equipment and compounds, and others don't have a problem with it. That is a choice you will have to make. I don't shoot compounds anymore because when I became comfortable with traditional bows, I lost interest in compounds--besides, I can't afford another hobby. There are many similarities with the two types of bows--pick a spot, concentrate, follow through--but there are also differences--kind of like a muzzleloader vs. a .30-06. If you can differentiate the particulars of each, and shoot accordingly, you shouldn't have a problem.

If we can help, just ask.

Chad