With a stickbow, you may loose some draw length, I shoot a mathews at 30", and my trad is in the 29" region. How much and whether you loose anyting will depend to a considerable extent on whether you had the right draw length in the first place. Most shooters are long anyway with a compound. Pros tend to shoot a pretty compact sort of stance, for them they may not loose anything. For instance I shoot a peep, and I anchor along the underside of my jaw with the string touching my nose and with bows in the 36-42" length. On the other hand, these days with the popularity of peeps and hard walls at full draw, can pull back to his ear. It's not a good technique, but you can shoot OK that way. This kind of guy might loos 3" with a trad bow.

I think you will probably be lucky, if you loose say one inch, you are right in the sweet spot for tillering the limbs (28" on stock bows), and should be able to buy your bows over the web no problem. You should also be able to buy a custom bow, which means you will be talking to a bowyer, which can be helpful. There are a lot of bowyers who work int he 350-600 range, so no reason not to get something good.

Don't know what you want this bow for, but if you don't shoot sticks, you may find that it's a lot harder to shoot, poundage wise. It's not always true, but it can be an issue. Be very conservative about draw weight, a bow in the 45-55 pound range is going to be right for most people droping down from the 70 pound area. The release is a much more difficult thing to do correctly than with a release aid, and it's made way worse if you are overbowed to boot. You might think it's going ot be easier to hit targets with the higher velocity one might get with a higher poundage bow, but even that tends not to be true, since inconsistant form will ruin velocity consistancy with the stick. There isn't any drawing to a single point, and getting the same velocity every time within .3%.