TFOX, don't assume I don't have tiller on my bows tuned. That's something I'm constantly talking about on this forum.

Every instruction manual with every compound I've ever had has specifically said to set the arrowrest so the arrow passes at the center of that hole. Then you adjust the nock point. It doesn't say the arrow rest is set at a 'starting point'. It says set it there and quit. Make adjustments at the nocking point. You can make some minor adjustments at the rest to finely center it up to the hole once you've got the nock point set.

But setting up a bow with the rest above the hole? Then saying that the hole is only a starting point? Sounds like a tech that makes up his own rules as he goes, because he's too flippin' lazy to set up a bow correctly. Like the guy that set up a bow for me with the nockset 1 1/2" inches below square, 'Because that's where it paper tuned.' Duuuuhhh!

You go and set up a rest with the arrow above the button hole and that presents some problems. Some of them can be amended by changing the bow's tiller. But one cannot be fixed - nock travel. Straight and level nock travel is the hot item right now. A couple of manufacturers are making bows with the grip well below the bow's centerline and the hole dead center, in order to get that. On a bowstring, there is only one exact spot on that string that has a chance of doing that - right dead center in the string. All other points on that string are traveling in an arc as the string comes back to brace. The further from that center point, the more drastic that arc is. That's not a theory, just basic geometry.

Well, you got that guy's opinion. Now you've got mine.