I was in a lumberyard recently and noticed that there was roof-insulating
fiberboard available. It was not the "Celotex" brand, but fiberboard just the same. For some reason, I had not been aware that the fiberboard was commonly being stocked in lumberyards and home repair businesses as it was in the past.
I immediately contacted my "bud" and informed him, and advised that we were going to construct some fiberboard targets as we used to use years ago before the influx of the various material-types of the manufactured targets that are on the market these days.
I have owned and used many types of the modernistic targets. Other then a bag target filled with remnants of "Kevlar" (bullet proofing material), none have been worth the price, and none have performed and been as durable as I desire and as good as the old fiberboard targets and backstops were. Even the "Kevlar" filled bag has its limitations; you cannot shoot broadheads into it. A good (modern) broadhead target that performs well and will last more than a few hundred shots is hard to find. I have never found one.
The old (homemade) fiberboard targets were great and you could shoot the hell out of them for a long time. You could control penetration depth, easily restore shot-out sections, and easily locate and remove fieldpoints and broadheads that were in the target when pulled loose from the shaft. 24" and 36" four-sided target were the norm on outdoor ranges. Large fiberboard walls (backstop) were commonly used in many indoor ranges …or excelsior fiber bales.
Depending on size, you cannot easily throw a fiberboard target in your truck or hang it from a tree limb. However, it can be transported if you desire to.
I am assuming the quality and strength of the fiberboard is as good as it was …back then. I shall see.
BOWFANATIC works in the fiberboard industry and knows what type of fiberboard is best. Use his information to obtain the correct fiberboard.
That just happens to be the industry I work in. Just about every bowhunter at work has his own fibre bale in his back yard or basement. They are very durable , easily constructed , and if compressed to the max , most fast bows only penetrate 3"-6" which makes arrow removal easy. The trick is getting the right fibre board. I've found that fibre board containing virgin kraft is too hard and rough on arrows. Fibre board with solid chip made with water based adhesive is what you need to look for.
For those that want to construct a target that will perform well for fieldpoints and broadheads, is long-lasting, and has features as mentioned (penetration control, replaceable sections, can remove lost head, etc,) I am posting the following plans that my friend and I will be using to construct ours. The same design that was used in yesteryear.
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PLANS
Material: (Use ½" x 4' x 8' Fiberboard Roof Insulation)
(6) ½" x 4' x 8' fiberboards (provides 48 sections to comprise a 24" x 24" target)
(1) ¼" x 24" x 48" section of plywood
(2) 2"x 4" x 6' boards
(4) 5/16" x 36" all-thread rods
(8) 5/16" nuts
(8) 5/16" flat washers
Tools:
Power saw
Metal cutting hacksaw
Drill
5/16" Drill bit
5/16" Wrench
Assemble:
1. Measure and cut across the width of each 4' x 8' board into
(4) 24" x 48" sections.
2. Cut each 24" x 48" precut sections in half for
(2) 24"x 24" sections per secton..
3. Cut section of 24" x 48"
plywood in half for
(2) 24" x 24" sections.
4. Cut each 2" x 4" board in half for
(4) 2" x 4" x 36" boards.
5. Measure in
5 inches from each end of
2" x 4" and place mark at center of board.
6. Drill
5/16" hole in each marked 2" x 4".
7. On each end of each 36" section of
all-thread rod, install a washer and then install nut and turn nut down for at least 4".
8. Stack sections of 24" x 24" fiberboard and plywood.
One section of plywood will be on bottom of fiberboard stack, one section of plywood will be on top of fiberboard stack.
9. Lift each end of stack and insert end of stack into 2" x 4" frame that has the all-thread rods installed. Move frame back about 2" from edge of stack. (If 2x4 boards were drilled correctly, all-thread should be against or near side of stack).
10. Tighten nuts until stack is tightly compressed.
11. Cut off all-thread to desired length above nuts. When you remove nuts, doing so will clean the cut ends of rod.
12. If desired, cut off ends of 2"x 4" to desired length. However the longer boards on the ground help stabilize the target and the longer 2" x 4" boards on top provide a handhold to lift the target.
Utilizing:
A. You can have control of depth of arrow penetration by how tight you compress the stack. Also, the tighter the stack is compressed the less shredding will occur when removing broadheads. Tight compression also helps prevent the broadhead from penetrating too deep.
B.When center of target starts to become shot-out, use opposite side of stack. When both sides start to become shot-out, loosen frame and remove and insert stack back into frame with un-shot edges now showing.
C. When all four sides start to become shot-out, install just enough new 24" x 24" sections to renew the shot-out area.
D. If you loose a head in stack, loosen frame so that you can lift the sections to remove head.
E. Protect target from ground moisture and cover with plastic when not being used. Rain or snow will speed up deterioration of target.