Originally Posted by
mrbb
have to ask, for those of you that are happy with your scopes (and NO bash meant)
but when your making them longer shots for you's at 300-400 yards, are you making scope adjustments in the field, or just holding over and using say , Kentucky wind age like adjustments for distance, aiming higher over body or such, rather than again, making actual scope adjustments for the shots!
as that is my point on why I said, most folks get by with basic scopes, as there NOT making lots of adjustments often, to find where they fail!
as like Is aid, most deer hunters I know tend to sight in a rifle at "X" range, and leave it there , thus there never really using the scopes adjustments after sighting in!
so unless scope then gets a hard impact, they tend to hold zero's
its when your making adjustments often, you find weak links in scopes designs and materials used
Glass
again, can be GREAT on lesser scopes, but it won't change the durability of internals on the scopes!
add great internals and great glass, you end up with costly scopes!, nature of the beast
but for those that use the adjustments often, they tend to be a needed deal in long term life of scopes!
as again cheaper scopes just DON"T have the internal parts, even one's with better glass from my experience!
they can be GOOD , but not the same as the top tier scopes!
attached is the drop chart for my 270 weatherby, one of my mid range rifles which I use holdover for shooting, as you can see the drops are in moa so sighted in at 300 yards, its just over 2" high at 100, 3" high at 200, 8" low at 400, 20" low at 500. I have conditioned myself to hold lower third of the shoulder to 200 yards or so, dead on at 300, upper third at 400, and 10" over the hairline at 500, my 7mm stw is within an inch or 2 of this same trajectory, I dial my long range shots.
As for turning knobs, for the most part, scopes with good turrets on them, the more ya spin them the more accurate they move.