Originally Posted by
d.winsor
The triggers that you said were the old ones is the trigger that they installed in my gun. The trigger they took off as per your post Mon Aug 27, 2012 you called it a Remington Walker trigger. Thread titled "Adjusting Mountaineer Trigger" I saved it for reference if I had to adjust my trigger. But trigger pull was 3 lb and so good that I was not going to fool with it.
You are correct I probably did because it adjusts just like the Walker trigger. I do apologize if I miss-lead you on that.
I did not buy the Mountaineer from Knight, I bought it from Sportsman Warehouse, truthfully I think I got an older gun, On the new barrel the specifications Concerning the breech plug and the barrel threads and the area around it were much tighter. I was using a 3/8" Deepwell to install and remove the breech plug in the old barrel.
Gosh! I have never been able to use a 3/8" drive to remove the BP - but in all honesty I do not even remember trying. I have always used a 1/4" drive with extension and 7/16" deep socket and they just barely fit.
[quote] I Had to go to a 1/4" deepwell so my socket wouldn't be shoved off the breech plug as I installed it.
Yes I am aware that the detent has to be in the right place, thanks. One problem I am having now is after the bolt is taken out of battery, most of the time you can't pull it back to remove the spent primer and install a new primer. The fired primer is not stuck in the breech plug or the bolt face either. The bolt will move back and then locks up, it takes a lot of effort and the little bolt release on the side that allows you to take the bolt out, takes a beating when the bolt comes back.
Could you try this... remove the hammer assembly from the bolt. Install the bolt in the rifle and work the bolt. It should open/close handle drop down with no effort at all.
This is also a good test for the depth of the breech plug... if it is not seated in the barrel deep enough the bolt (without hammer assembly) will insert and draw back just fine but it will not just drop down to the fully closed position as the bolt shroud will run into the breech plug nut.
This is also a problem that can cause the bolt to not seat correctly or lift very difficult. Depending on how far in you screw the hammer assembly there are bolt housing and hammers that will lock up themselves up. If you screw the secondary safety all the way in, and I mean in tight and then screw the hammer assembly into the bolt until it stops. Depending on where it stops will determine how far to turn it back. If when you turn the hammer in and it passes the detent by up to a 3/4 turn you often have to turn the hammer assembly back out 1 full turn + the amount it passed by then loosen the secondary safety. The hammer shroud has to have a small space between it and the bolt housing....
One other note: Knight didn't do me any favors regardless of what type of trigger Assembly they replaced mine with, as the trigger was not functional and dangerous in my opinion. That is why I bought a trigger Assembly from Numrich. Also The trigger assembly I bought looked exactly like the ones that you said were the old ones.
Correct several years ago Knight had another company furnish them with triggers that looked like and function like Timneys...
I am not sure why you felt the new trigger was a problem but if t were adjusted correctly it truly is a better trigger than the contract copy.
I did not buy the barrel from Numrich, I called Knight and asked them if their barrel kits they sell were from current production run barrels, they said yes. It killed me to do it, but I didn't want to chance getting an old "New" barrel. I bought the new barrel from Knight!! Go Figure.
I would give anything (well not really) to look at your rifle - I would really like to know what is going on...
mike