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Old 03-14-2014 | 02:25 AM
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DIY_guy
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Unlike all the other rehabs I wont pour over every detail and part. I think you have seen the process I use. This gun is going to be a tool (a turkey hunting tool). Its not going to get the super high gloss polish and blue. The metal is too deeply pitted for such a thing so this gun is going to get a matte finish on both the metal parts and the wood (satin finish on the wood). The black matte finish hides the pitting and gives the gun a stealthy turkey hunting look since you dont want glare coming off your gun (and I am not a fan of camo tape). Not polishing saves considerable time allowing me to complete this gun rather quickly. The bolt is the most corroded part so I started there. Not only is there a lot of rust but it is deeply pitted.





This is after the soak in the bluing/rust remover and a clean up with the Dremmel wire wheel, 400 grit and steel wool.





This is after the 2nd bluing. I blue just in case the baking lacquer should wear or get chipped off. It does two things. I protects the metal and it blackens it so if the baking lacquer were to get removed you don’t see shiny silver metal beneath.





The Brownell baking instructions call for 3 light dustings and then a half hour at 300F. Here are the parts going in the oven in the shop.



Here are the parts after baking

The adjustable choke.



Safety



Magazine retention clip.



Trigger



Magazine opening/plate.



Firing pin.



That rusty old bolt. Now you can see why the matte black was a good choice for a gun with this degree of rusted pitting.





To be continued……. Time to fire up the homemade barrel curing oven again.
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