RyanVT
I've shot every type of broadhead in the book I think. I've shot fast, and light, and heavy and slow, old compounds, recurves, longbows .... killed elk, mule deer, whitetails, pronghorns .....
This is what you need to know
Have your bow well tuned.
Shoot the heaviest arrows your bow will shoot well without terribly compromising trajectory. KE means nothing - it is literally the energy required to get your arrow from zero to top speed - which has nothing to do with how your arrow penetrated. Momentum is the key.
Shoot a broadhead that will NEVER FAIL YOU. mechanicals will and do fail, some other heads do too by way of top curling etc.
I shoot a Mathews Drenalin, 63 pounds, 590 grain total weight arrows with a 170 Zwickey's
Why?
Compound because I have no time to practice recurve and I got a great deal on it.
63 pounds because I can sit in the cold for 4 hours not moving and draw it.
590 grains because I couldn't get my arrows tuned to 650 grains - if I could have I would have ! HEAVY IS BETTER FOR EVERYTHING
Most people never shoot beyond 20-25 yards ... heavy means more momentum.
170 gr Zwickeys because I've never bent/broken one. Ever. 2 blades means better penetration. I resharpen them.
I have shot Slick Trick Razortricks the past couple of years with great success. THEY ARE TOUGH, and SHARP and they fly like mech's do ..... a fantastic broadhead IMO that will not fail you
That's a 200 lb KS Whitetail, first vertebrae off the skull.
No, NOT the shot I planned, but my heavy arrows and Razortricks worked.
A mechanical would NOT have done that - having the right head and arrow was the difference in wounded buck vs tagged buck
