Originally Posted by
Topgun 3006
Never could understand buying that big a cannon that you need to start adding something like that to be able to shoot it!!!
The first rifle that I ever shot that had a muzzle brake on it was the M-14 (caliber 7.62 or .308 Win) that the US Army issued me back in 1968. A few months later, they issued me an M-16 (caliber 5.56 or .223). Along with their semi-autoloading civilan counterparts, there are millions of these rifles around the world.
These are not known as "heavy kicking" rifles, but they had/have a cylinder with slots in it's sides that is attached to the muzzle of their barrels. These slots allow some of the hot, expanding gassess to exit to the sides of the muzzle before to the bullet exits the barrel. The military calls this cylinder a "flash suppresor," and says that it's purpose is to reduce the flame or visible flash that exits the barrel right behind the bullet.
This process of re-directing some of the expanding gasses was also found to reduce the felt recoil of firearms equipped with these devices, or of firearms that had holes or ports cut into the muzzle end of their barrels.
Muzzle brakes are cylinders with holes in their sides that are attached to the muzzle of firearms. Other than the shape of the holes, they are exactly the same as the military flash suppressors. They allow some of the hot, expanding gassess to exit to the sides of the muzzle before to the bullet exits the barrel.
I like to shoot, and I like to shoot a lot, but I don't like to come home with a sore, black and blue shoulder. When I was shooting competitive Trap and later Skeet, I was shooting about 10,000 shotgun, and mostly 12 ga, shells per year. At some shoots, we would shoot up to 500 targets per day.
I had both my Trap and Skeet shotguns "ported", and immediately noticed that they did not kick as hard, and the muzzle jump was also greatly reduced. That was exspecially important for the second shot on doubles targets.
In 2004 I booked a Cape Buffalo hunt in Zimbabwe. My .30 caliber elk rifle wasn't quite enough rifle for that hunt, so I bought a .375 Remington Ultra magnum. This caliber is like the old .375 H&H on steroids.
On my first trip to the range with this rifle I didn't even get it sighted in with 6 or 8 shots and found that it was NOT any fun to shoot, it had entirely too much recoil. There was no way I was going to shoot 200-300 rounds through that rifle before I left for my Cape Buffalo hunt.
So I had a local gunsmith install a KDF muzzle brake on it (approx $200) and I re-stocked it with a stock that
fit me and had a Limbsaver recoil pad on it.
I was then able to comfortably practice with it and was able to satisfy my African Professional Hunter of my shooting ability when checking the zero of that rifle in Africa and my first two shots had touching holes at 100 yds.
Prior to taking that rifle on a second African hunt in 2007, I also installed a mechanical recoil reducer in it's butt-stock. This .375 RUM now kicks less than my 7mm Rem mag, and even shooting from prone positions, the recoil is not too uncomfortable.
About 5 years ago, I built my longtime dream rifle, a .300 Weatherby, and the first thing that I did to it was to have a KDF muzzle brake installed on it. I also custom stocked it to
fit me and it also has a mechanical recoil reducer and a Limbsaver recoil pad on it. It kicks less than my .270 Win, and is becoming my favorite rifle.
Both of these rifles are loud, but since they are burning 40-60% more powder than a .30-06, they should be loud, with or without a muzzle brake.
I ALWAYS wear ear protection when shooting these rifles at the range, just about always have ear protection in when shooting at game animals.
I've taken this muzzle braked .375 RUM on two African hunts, and took my braked .300 Wby on another African hunt and a Texas exotic hunt. I've never had a guide or professional hunter say anything against these rifles, and they have been very happy that I am not afraid of them and can shoot them well.