For that price you have tons of options. But just a word of caution - the most expensive doesn't mean it will be a good choice for you. Also, some manufacturers give you a good bang for your buck. Martin is a good example of this.
I may miss some brands but some choices are Bowtech, Matthews, PSE, Martin, and Bear.I would tell you to shoot as many as you can and then decide. Also, unless you're a big burly guy or have been shooting a bow for a while and are strong enough or going to be hunting out in the western states I would opt for a bow in the 45-60 draw wt range. Ample KE for deer and black bear. You want to be able to smoothly draw our bow while pointing it at the target without going through a lot of contortions. Another thing a lot of guys don't think about when buying a bow is that, yeah they can draw it no problem at the shop now in the middle of August. But what happens in a treestand on a cold frosty November morning when that buck of a lifetime is 15 yds under your treestand and your muscles are chilled. It a whole new ballgame then. I've heard horror stories of guys that couldn't get their bow drawn or had to twist and grunt and groan and got busted. Or have to draw, then let down, then draw again. I would say, if you can't draw the weight 3 times in rapid sucession then you're shooting a bow that's too heavy.