Art, Paper that is high in ash is very tough on cutting edges. The cotton paper that is the best quality is low in ash that is what I use. It is getting very hard to find this type of paper. Many guys will lap their bores for better accuracy. I have seen mine get slightly smoother and the GM barrels seem to shoot better as they wear in. My opinion is the sharp edges are not a benefit. The sharp edges will cut patches and will cut cloth or paper on bullets. To be honest I think that when guys work at removing lead and plastic they do as much or more damage.

After getting my loads down pat I don't shoot 100's or 1000's of rounds to keep checking accuracy or what ever. I do shoot before hunts to get back in the swing but I don't over do it. All barrels will see negative affects of shooting. Will paper speed this up? I have been shooting these rifles for a number of years. So far I am happy with the results.

Resistance in the barrel depends on what the barrel likes. For my .451 I tried different sizes and then settled on a .446 bullet and sized to .446 This gives me a slightly looser fit than my 50 but it is still tight enough to keep them from coming off the powder.

I do swab between shots but my goal is a load that will be 3 shots, sub 2" groups at 100 yards without cleaning. Some will do sub 2" groups with 5 shots. I want them to be hunting loads not just target loads.

Yes my bullets have GG. The 500 S&W bullets are large meplat type that impart massive energy to the animal on impact. Most PP bullets that are smooth sided have a somewhat pointed bullet and little to no meplat. These are designed to shoot targets at very long range. Since our sport is a sport of 200 yards or less a person doesn't need a 1000 yard type bullet. Like I said before the GG type are designed mostly for hunting with pistols. Some are accurate for ML's but a guy has to try them and sometimes lead hardness plays a role in finding that perfect load.

IF you have any questions feel free to ask. Ron