Originally Posted by
jmax857
The quiver I remove as soon as I am in my stand, I just sorta use it to carry my arrows around. My dad knows a guy who owns a bow shop, and he's "donating" me a whisker bisquit, and some carbon arrows.your right on the money with the arrow rest, the fletching lightly touches the side, and when the arrow rides on the rest it makes noise too. As far as limb savers, what exactly do they do?
And how could I "tune" the cams myself?
And someone told me that they were cam-pulleys if it makes a difference.
Someone also told me, if you get an old bow like this shooting too fast it could break a limb?
Limb Savers are soft rubber. What they do is absorb some of the vibration created by the bow when shot reducing the amount of vibration that tarvels through the limbs to the riser, thus less noise. Also by absorbing some of the vibration it helps with longevity of the limbs.
It's pretty hard to get an older bow shooting too fast to break a limb, but care should be taken when choosing arrows. The arrow is what is supposed to absorb most of the bow's energy. Older bows didn't have such good modern limb technology so don't push it too hard for speed. You can put arrows together or have them done so they are light and fast, but don't go nuts.
With most modern bows it is recommended that you maintain at least 5 grains of arrow weight per pound of draw weight. Back a decade ago the standard was 6 gr/lb. Don't confuse this with grains per inch of arrow weight. Grains per pound refers to total arrow weight in reference to the bow's draw weight. You have to pick a shaft that is the proper spine for the length and draw weight. Then you have to figure the shaft weight per inch multiplied by the shaft length. Add to this the weight of the nock, fletching, insert and point for total arrow weight.
In your case, you would want an arrow that weighs 360 grains or more. Subtract about 150gr for the arrow components (average weights) and the bare shaft needs to weigh 210 gr or more. Assuming a 28" shaft it would have to tip the scales at 7.5 gr/in. Most hunting shafts of proper spine would be greater than this (8.4 gr and up) so it's not much of a concern. This just for your education.
Now what spine to choose? Considering that same 60# and approximately 28-29" a 400 spine should work well. Decent shafts that don't hammer the wallet would be Gold Tip Expedition 5575.
As for cam timing? Take it to a shop and let them look at it. Your bow has steel cables and there's only so much you can do with your limited experience.
One other thing I noticed from the pictures. The cables look like they are pretty close to the limb groove. Possibly when shot they are traveling forward enough to hit the limbs. This could be part of the noise problem. Could be the string has stretched over time reducing the brace height. Maybe a new string is in order.
Hope this gets you on your way. I understand that not everybody can afford a new bow. You were right. Those old relics killed a lot of deer and can continue to do so.