In my opinion, your 400 series carbon arrows are way too stiff for your bow because at your draw length of 27 1/4", you're only shooting around 48#.

Tuning a bow isn't going in and looking at a chart from some guy who works at the archery shop who deals with compound bows everyday.

To tune a bow, there are parameters that have to be correct or your arrow won't fly well....as you have found out.

These parameters are:

1) Nock Set Height ( Mine is set a 5/8")
2) Bowstring Material (Dacron or Fastflight)
3) Number of Strands making up the bowstring
4) Brace Height (Recommended Dream Catcher is 7 1/4"-8")
5) Poundage at 28"
6) Poundage at 27 1/4"
7) Overall Length of Arrow you want to use
8) Point Weight you're considering of using
9) Center Cut/Strike Plate Position
10) Insert Weight
11) Nock End Weight
12) Feather Configuration ( 3, 5") (3, 4") etc.

As you can see, it gets complicated. However, there is a free program that works very well to give you a "tunable" arrow. It's Stu Miller's Dynamic Spine Calculator which is a virtual "what if" program when you can insert data and see if the arrow will work without you having to buy any arrows. The direct clickable link to it is below.

http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

I use this free downloadable program, but there is one very important caveat. The data inputted into the 14 boxes has to be absolutely correct or it won't work giving you the "wrong" tunable arrow. If you don't know the correct parameters, you "can't guess". The most critical of all the boxes is the Center Cut/Strike Plate Position.

As an example. My bow's shelf is cut 3/16" past center. So on Stu's calculator, that is (-3/16). My velcro strike plate is 1/8" thick (+2/16). I have to subtract my strike plate's thickness to get the correct Center Cut/Strike Plate Position number. So, (-3/16) minus (+2/16) gives me the correct number of (-1/16) and this is the number I put into that box.


I hope the above info helps you.