I'd have to agree, this is quite often a "self-taught" skillset. Your reloading manual will provide you most of what you need in the way of knowledge to get started, provided you read through it and gain an understanding of what you're about to do BEFORE you rush out and make a mistake.
As far as procedures in your manuals go, they're usually pretty consistent from volume to volume. Where you'll see the most difference between volumes is in the actual load data, particularly as new propellants become available and old ones are retired.
The package you referenced is the updated version of what I bought almost 25 years ago and still use a good portion of today. It should serve you quite well. Don't forget the shellholders! Two low-cost adds I'd also make immediately are a baffle for your powder measure and a set of check weights for your scale.
And once you have some rounds under your belt, don't be discouraged if you find that your reloaded ammo doesn't quite perform the way you'd expected, most often reflected in accuracy. While load development does involve some experimentation, you're also somewhat limited by some gaps in your RCBS package, most notably in the area of case preparation. Consistency is something you should strive for in your reloads. I still recall my first batch of reloaded, mismatched R-P and W-W cases, stoked with what the manual said was the maximum load for IMR4350 in a .243. My shotguns throw a tighter pattern.
Here are a list of tools I wish I'd have purchased sooner, in the order I'd buy them (after the RCBS package) if I were starting over:
1. A chronograph. I used to extrapolate to get an idea what my loads would achieve velocity-wise. Having a chronograph showed me how inconsistent my loads actually were, through statistical analysis of things like "extreme spread" and "standard deviation." In turn, those numbers led me down the road to discover the real importance of case length and neck concentricity (and where case preparation really pays off).
2. A vernier caliper and a case trimmer.
3. A Stony Point/Hornady Overall Length (OAL) gauge and comparator set. Assuming that your .30-30 is of the lever-action variety, You'd probably want the curved version of the OAL gauge, which will also work in autos, pumps, and bolt guns. This simple little setup will tell you quite a bit about your specific firearm and then allow you to accurately and consistently seat bullets to within whatever tolerance you set from your firearm's rifling.
4. A concentricity gauge. I've used a Forster for a few years, got my hands on the new Hornady version that allows you to "correct" run-out and improve individual cartridge concentricity, but it's still in the box. Can't recommend it one way or another - yet.
5. An exterior ballistics program can also be a handy tool, especially if you record trajectories for longer-range rifle shooting.
There are lots of cool tools otherwise, fancy digital scales and powder dispensers. As much as I do like mine, I could get by without them provided I have all of the tools listed above. Other than to the basic procedures, which are different because of the straight-wall cases, pistol ammunition tends not to require so much attention to detail. After time, your cases may need a trim so that they'll function reliably in an auto pistol. Otherwise, pistol reloading is pretty simple.