Never heard that before--that's an interesting theory.
I don't think speed has anything to do with it though. We're talking about an average of 5 fps or less difference on average, maybe 15 fps on the extreme side. You'll get more than that by switching from a guy with a 25" draw length to a guy with a 32" draw length--a lot more. Bows don't blow up just because someone has a longer draw.
On top of that, the speed gain is primarily because the HMPE string is more efficient--the difference in speed with the limb tips is very slight. We're talking grains of difference in string weight.
HMPE (FF type) materials don't turn a VW into a dragster. My theory on hand shock is this:
Hand shock is energy from the limbs not transferred to the arrow. It travels down the limbs to the riser and to your hand. Less efficient strings impart more hand shock, as do lighter arrows. HMPE materials are more efficient than dacron, so they impart less shock. Won't mean a lot to most recurve shooters (although I have shot a couple of recurves that were as bad as any longbow I've ever shot), but it will to a lot of longbow shooters--some designs, coupled with featherweight risers, can tear up an arthritic elbow.
Usually the slowest bow has the most shock: i.e. a lot of Jerry Hill longbows, the Martin Stick and Twig, straight limbed Hill and Hill style bows, etc. Tiny tips on some, but lots of shock. Usually it can be calmed down with a HMPE string.
That's my experience to date. The other thread had calmed down quite a bit, but seems to have dissapeared. Oh well....
ff string damage is tip damage. Tip damage leads to limb damage. I know when I build a bow for a person using ff strings, there are only a few tip materials I can use. Wood tips will not support a fast flight string. Seen lots of people screw up bows with ff strings on wood overlays. I have fixed many, personally.