Tag ends of knots.
Take good care to make sure they are trimmed down tight to the knot. When jigging, the knot is the very first thing to come into contact with weed snags, and most knots have the tag ending pointing forward of the knot. If you dont trim the tag end down tight to the knot, you are begging for weeds, especially with a non-limp line such as flouro or mono. The issue doesnt seem to arise as much with braid knots, but a tag end that isnt cut flush with the knot on mono will act like a barb when pulling the jig through grass, even if its less than a mm in length. My tag ends are almsot invisibile they are cut so close to the knot, and I have lost zero jigs as a result of knot failure. Just make sure to cinch/snug the knot good before trimming the tag end. Granted, I retie every 3-4 fish, but the knot has never failed on me while jig fishing.

Rod Action and Length
Though many people prefer medium heavy rods with fast tips for worming, I have only found them useful in heavy vegetation when I needed the assurance of a strong backbone on the rod for horsing a fish out if need be. For all other purposes, I prefer a medium action rod with a moderate speed. This allows me to feel everything so much better since the sensitivity is that much greater. Since I dont use heavy gauge wire hooks for worming, the action of the rod can be much slower and still have the backbone required to set the hook with authority. Most of my non-vegetation worm rods are crank bait rods by other people's standards. Don't hesitate to try different rods for techniques that they were'nt designed for, you might just find that you prefer it in certain situations that it was never "intended or designed" to be used for.