TFOX,
When it comes to tuning, more precise is better. I think that our disagreement is simply a matter of degree.
When I tune for myself, I'm a little obsessive compulsive, but I have the form to do it and the tools and knowledge to do it.
But I just haven't found that precision tuning is that important to repeatable accuracy.
By precision tuning, I mean that broadheads & field points & bare shafts hit exactly same point at 30 yards. If BH's hit within 6 or 8 inches from the field points at 20 yards, that's not precision, but it's good enough for most archers. At least it is if they reset their sights when they change points.
Last week I put new strings on my bow and didn't have a chance to do more that an eyeball setup before I shot an indoor round. I still shot a 50X (very close to my average) even though the guy next to me was laughing at my corkscrew arrow flight.
No, I wouldn't hunt with this bow without more tuning. My guess is that the BH's would be a couple of feet off of the field points and penetration wouldn't be optimal. The corkscrew is mostly from cam lean and timing which is part of the overall setup that has to be done right before nock and centershot is addressed.
You are right that an arrow that is flying sideways is difficult to shoot accurately, but one that's a little off is not. Again, it's just a matter of degree.
A bow that is set up per the Easton tuning guide is as good as most need if it's done by a tech who is familiar with the specific bow. For example, I would have no problems hunting with a bow that Len in Maryland set up for me, even without paper tuning.
Better is better when it comes to tuning, but we rapidly reach a point of diminishing returns. I tune my bow to near perfection because I enjoy doing it. However, much of what I do doesn't effect accuracy at hunting distances.
Allen