OK here's the word from Martin. The manual says the bow will shoot best with the tiller set dead even. The tech guy said there would be no problem in trying to tune by this method. OK lets see. I followed Arthur's directions. After noting my pin moving up away from the sight, I cranked the lower limb in 1/4 turn and took out the upper pin 1/4 turn. Almost right. I cranked in the lower limb another 1/4 turn and tried again. Perfect - the pin stayed right on target right through the draw.
OK now the test. Took 6 arrows out at 20 yds. (3 FTs and 3 BHs).
First 3 FTs hit 12 o'clock about 3" high on the field point target. Switched over to the broadhead target and let the 3 BHs fly. Guess where they hit? 12 o'clock - 3" high. Right on with the FTs.
Now this tells me 2 things. First is that the arrows were shooting much tighter groups with both the FTs and the BHs. And second, that the speed increased being that I was hitting 3" higher. (Netting only a 1# draw wt. increase)
One other thing I noticed even with only these 6 shots. I was able to follow the arrow moving to the target because the bow didn't jump down blocking my sight picture after the shot. It just seem to sit 'right there'.
So for my records, I decided to measure the tiller settings for future reference and found that the tiller was dead even. Not even a 1/16" difference. Coincidence? I don't know and I don't care. Its hitting where I want, grouping tight and no recoil or vibration after the shot. Thanks Authur. Great post