IF you have a barrel that' s removable, it makes cleaning simpler than if you can' t separate the barrel from the stock for cleaning. If you can take the barrel out and put it into a bucket of water, then cool water will work OK, because you can pump it into and out of the bore enough times to get the BP fouling out. Cool water takes longer to loosen and remove fouling!!

If you cannot remove the barrel, the boiling water methoid is better, because you only pour the two quarts through a funnel and into the muzzle, letting it run out of the touchhole opening (assuming you have a touch-hole liner in the hole that you can remove with a screw-driver). I have several guns for which barrel removal is a chore. I clean these with the barrel still in the stock. I wrap a small towel or rag around my barrel near the muzzle so I don' t have to touch the hot barrel with my hands. After the water clears the barrel, just wipe the bore with three or four clean, dry patches. It will dry out immediately, and the first patch or two removes ALL the powder fouling, as your next couple of patches will show! Then, when the barrel has cooled to where you can touch it, just oil up the bore with something like Break-Free or Birchwood-Casey Sheath to prevent rust. I have found that products like T/C Bore Butter are OK for shooting patch lube, but cannot be trusted as a long-term rust preventative!!

As far as wiping the flint, pan and frizzen after each shot to prevvent misfires, I use a cleaning patch. I spit on it to make an end of it moist, then wipe the edge of the flint, the face of the frizzen, and the bottom of the flashpan with the wet end. I then dry those parts with the other end of the same patch. I also carry a touch-hole pick to use to make sure the touch-hole is not blocked with fouling. Since hot gas shoots out of the touchhole at each shot, it tends to stay pretty clear.