If you can't find .257 Weatherby brass (I couldn't either, everyone was sold out), try to find some .270 Wby brass and then neck it down. The difference is not that great so all you need to do it run the 270 Wby brass through the your 257 Wby FL die and out comes ready to load 257 Wby brass, no fireforming required. Just make sure you use a good lube on the necks like Imperial Sizing lube. A little swipe on the neck and shoulder of each case will keep the from getting crushed when the get necked down. Also, make sure to check the case length afterward because necking down will make them grow a little. Mine were ok, but your results may vary. You can also make .257 Wby brass out of 7mm Rem Mag brass, but it requires fireforming and the necks are a little short compared to Wby brass (which is ok), and accuracy is actually very good just with fireform loads considering the brass costs a fraction what true Weatherby brass costs.

Another suggestion I might make is to consider ditching the Nosler BT's for a somewhat tougher bullet. Your 257 Wby, with a 26" tube and loaded to it's potential with H-1000, will easily spit out a 100gr BT at an honest 3500+ fps. I, personally, don't feel that the BT's are anywhere near tough enough to be a good big game bullet at those speeds if the animal is under 200 yards away. You'll kill them if you put it through the ribs for sure, but I wouldn't have a lot of confidence that enough of that bullet will make it through the muscle and bone of a should shot to get a clean kill. My hunting load will consist of 100 gr Barnes T-TSX BT's, which I KNOW will instantly expand but still hold together and penetrate no matter what parts of the deer it has to go through. I'm also might try out the 110 gr Accubond if I get a second late season doe tag if they shoot ok in my rifle. I'd like to compare the results from the bonded lead bullet versus the all copper TSX.

Mike