If you are weighing your bow with a Cardoza hand-held scale then don't believe it. These things are notorious for being 5-6 pounds too light. If it's a difital then I can't comment.

The one at the shop may be a couple pounds light. It really isn't important whether the bow draws 70# or not. What you need to do is use one or the other and just use it for a reference in case you make any changes to the bow at a later date.

It's been said many times before and I'll repeat it here. There is nothing walking this continent that requires a 70# bow except our egos. If your bow is drawing 67-68 then that is fine. Even 65# will dump anything you're going to hunt.

An important thing to consider is that archery/bowhunting is not a sport where brute strength is required. If you can draw a bow with ease and shoot it accurately then that's the way it's supposed to be. With a little lighter draw weight you can practice longer and work on shooting form with greater ease. Accuracy is what this is all about.

All the kinetic energy in the world is not worth a hoot if you can't put it where it does the most good.

Now ll this ranting of mine brings me to another point. You can double check a couple things to see if your bow is within factory specs. Namely the advertised axle-to-axle length and brace height. If the A2A is a little long and the brace height is a little high then the bow may need to be adjusted by twisitng the string and/or cable to put more prebend in the limbs. And if you don't know how to do this then that's what shops are for.