cva optima from saxman that i have to see whats wrong with,coming to me in a couple weeks i believe. See if'n these here magic fingers can help it out any.
ORIGINAL: MountainDevil54
im going to take a damn movie and teach you how to brown those barrels!
I wont be putting the steel kit on my hawken right away, way to many projects going on this year.
I should have a nice cva optima from saxman that i have to see whats wrong with,coming to me in a couple weeks i believe. See if'n these here magic fingers can help it out any.
Corey i started about 2 hours ago reshaping the lockplate on my kentucky. 2 hours and barely anything done it on! Already tore down skin on one finger and a bandaid in place. Shes gonna be rusty walnut with antique oil finish. Also putting new sights on the .58 mountain rifle.
I'll more than likely strip your barrel back down, 220 grit sand it and then start the LMF.
When that Optima arrives take a good look/feel of the barrel right were they welded the forend mount to the Barrel. If you were a welder you would know that the heat from welding at first expands the metal but as it cools it contracts. In fact it contracts to a smaller size than when you first started out. This is what I refer to as drawing the steel (pulling), now it is quite posible that there is a constriction in the bore were some Idiot welded the lug to mount the forend![:@] I have lapped the tight spot out of 2 CVA/NewFornteir rifles. They both woouldn't shot for XCV#, before I lapped them, be careful that you don't enlarge the muzzle if you need to lap the thing. If you do lap the barrel, you will discover just how soft these barrels are, it wont take much and the tight spot will be gone.