ORIGINAL: MGH_PA
Interesting. So the two inch radius you're mentioning is from the timing dots to where? The fact that the radius is so small, it doesn't show the errors as accurately or what? I suppose I'm confused as to why using the location of the draw stop modules in relation to the cables at full draw is an incorrect method synchronization? I understand you're saying it's a compromising the synch at brace, but how does that effect arrow flight?
Believe me, I'm not an expert, and I can see you know what you're doing, I just want some clarification. Thanks!
The one to two inch radius is the distance between the cable or string (depening on the bow)to the cam's tuning marks. It's hard to judge one or two degrees of rotation with such a small radius but much easier with the tool at 11 inch radius. When we draw stop match at full draw it's so we don't feel that double bump and to gain the most consistent draw length (and accuracy/speed). It's doing nothing to synchronize the cams. Arrow flight probably won't be affected much either way,, I've seen a few people shoot with so much hand torque that arrow flight would not be affected by any means of tuning[&:]. What this tool will do is give you 95% of what your trying to do with draw stop matching and the other 5% is really not needed especailly if your cam stops the cam rotation before the module stops screw things up
. However if your bow has an agreeable cable crossing and method of containment like the Guardian. you're probably going to find than module stop matching is right on the money.. The worst of the offenders are the roller guards and don't allow the cables to travel back with the cam axle centerlines. These have much different cable angles at full draw, where you think you need module stop matching
