YellowLab,

Started out strong, real strong. FailSafes are top notch bullets. 230gr is a good weight, 338 is a non-whimp cartridge and you' ve got it grouping well. The general rule on elk is to go " heavy for caliber" and for a 338 that would be 225 to 250gr unless you are shooting Barnes bullets.

Now things sound a little different. If recoil, especially with a muzzlebrake added is a problem, then you might consider something more gentle like a 30-06 with quality 180' s @ 2700 (22lbs/13fps), or better yet......

If you want to stick with the 338 (great elk caliber), then I' d recommend a quick session with a " big bore pro" to work on your technique and rifle fit, something must be out of whack, since 338' s aren' t really much of a kicker (250 gr @ 2700 is only 35/14).

Note: Compromising on bullets for elk hunting is penny wise but pound foolish. " Combined technologies" ? I don' t know the specifics there, but unless, theres been a corporate takeover that I missed, it is either Hornady (mediocre for elk) or Nosler (decent for elk) but it isn' t both, they' re seperate. Go with the quality bullet (Nosler or better), they cost only pennies more.

Note: Fundamental rule -- if you change your load or your rifle (muzzlebrake), then recheck the sight in -- you just gotta -- you owe it to the game.

Note: Regarding, cost of ammo -- have you fully budgeted your trip -- what' s the overall bottom line? Economically, the cost of ammo (for both practice and hunt) is a small item compared to the trip cost; come the moment of truth, learning the " virtues" of cheap light ammo may prove, well -- " priceless" . [Elk don' t " give it up" easy like deer generally do -- elk, as a rule, fight hard to hold onto life.]

Sorry, can' t speak to your BOSS/Muzzlebrake adjustment question -- I don' t use them -- yet.

Good luck with your hunt,

Never Go Undergunned,
EKM