sngehl01

Tune before you sight.

This is pretty critical. You don't want to sight your arrows only to learn your bow is badly out of tune. You also don't want to get your 20 and/or 30 yard pins shooting good, only to realize the farther back you get, the further left or right your groups move from the center.

When I'm revamping my set-up, here is the process that I like to follow. To each his own, but here's what I do.

First, I paper tune. I don't mess with bare-shaft or anything because I don't change my arrows. Easton St. Epic 340's.

I get it shooting a pretty good bullet hole, a slight tear one direction doesn't bother me. I only paper tune to get it close.

Then, I step back to ten yards. I start with the tip of my arrow in line with the string in line with the sight pins. I get a pin hitting with field tips @ ten yards. I step back to twenty and shoot it. The only reason I start at ten because you have more room for error, and are less likely to lose arrows. At twenty yards, I make sure my point of impact hasn't changed much. If it has, I adjust my rest for left/right changes, and my sights for up/down changes. Once I get a FP hitting @ 20, I shoot a broadhead at the same target. I then move my REST until the point of impact for the two are the same.

I go back to 30, set a pin up for that, and repeat the process. field points first, then follow with broadheads.

I then do this at 40 and 50 yards (i use a four pin sight). The further back you go, the smaller adjustments you will make to your rest.

Once I am satisfied at fifty, I shoot at 20/30/40/50 one more time each, make sure I take good shots, and make sure it's hitting still.

At this point, you should be ready to go. I like for my sights/arrow tip/string to be inline when I am done, and it usually is, or very, very close. If it's not, you may have a bow-torque problem, or a spine-issue.

Good luck. This may not be the best method ever, but I like it, and it works for me.