This post is kind of ironic to me. Since I don't know where to start,let me begin by dispelling a couple myths/incorrect statements I noticed. The first is you HAVE to get your gunsmith to blueprint the action BEFORE you ever mate barrel to action. The action needs to be trued up so barrel can be installed perfectly and in linear alignment. Now before the barrel is installed is when you should lap in bolt lugs. Secondly,all finer barrels come already hand lapped-liljas included. Thirdly,steel is usually engraved while stocks are usually checkered althou I have seen some mighty pretty stock carvings. As far as barrels go,get the BEST you can afford and have your gunsmith install it. If you're not going to be building several rifles,it wouldn't pay to buy the tooling neccesary and wouldn't even be possible without a lathe for threading,etc. Now IF you're DETERMINED to do all that you can possibly do yourself,for more pride in being able to say you did it yourself,rent the tools you'll need as well as reamers after your barrel is chambered. I would suggest a stainless barrel and stain/finish it dark as I HATE stainless look personally,but stainless not only resists rusting,the throat will also last slightly longer on stainless barrel than chrome moly steel will. Once you get action/barrel work done,mated properly,and chambered-preferably on "tight" side,you're ready to select trigger. If you want a outstanding trigger,the single set triggers are best of both worlds. For bench work such as working up loads,sighting in,etc-you can set the trigger to mere ozs while when hunting/normal shooting you would choose unset trigger weight usually adjustable between 1-3 pounds(in my favorite example-canjar,and others). Now you have only to stock rifle. Would you prefer wood or synthetic stock? If you decide on synthetic,opt for a good 1 featuring glass/pillar/full insert bedding block. If you want wood (walnut or laminated) you can attempt to carve out from blank-which I DON'T reccomend UNLESS you already have a knack for woodworking/shaping. What would be MUCH easier is to order a stock that's inletted or almost,and rough shaped then final inlett/bed inside and final shape and sand outside. After those steps are done you'll need to hand checker & finish it. Before checkering your stock,PLEASE practice on old wood and any junk stocks you have lying around as there's NO WAY you'll be able to checker right away without BUNCHES of mishaps and mistakes. Finishing stocks is pretty much straightforward and easy as long as you pay attention to detail and not get in a hurry. What I do is airbrush my own blend on,hand rub between coats,repeat about 15-20 times. Let's see-what all have I failed to touch on while posting this without my life sustaining coffee yet?