.25MOA

One thing Ive seen help a lot is to use Flitz on a tight patch for an hour or so to "knock the edge" off any really rough spots in the bore prior to my first range session. Change Flitz patch every 10 min or so. Note on a high-end hand-lapped barrel of course this step is not necessary nor recommended. After that, and of course that step is entirely optional, I do the usual clean after every shot first 5, every 3 until I'm not getting any "blue" on my patches. What you are accomplishing here smoothing all the imprefections left behind from tooling at the factory. Those blemishes cannot be corrected when they are full of and covered in copper. Best advise Ive ever heard from my benchrest cohorts is LET THE BARREL TELL YOU WHEN ITS BROKEN IN. Most factory barrels thats 40-50 rounds in my experiance. When you get to where your cleanings after 10 or so rounds yeild little to no coper fouling, and little to no change in accuracy, your there. Once broken in, I usually clean on avg every 20-30 rounds for a factory barrel, sometimes you can get double that out of a custom barrel depending on caliber and load.

As for technique, Ive gotten to where I NEVER use a copper brush on any of my barrels, and a nylon one only if necessary. Hit it with a few tight-fitting solvent soaked patches first to get any loose carbon (Hoppe's 9 or any carbon-killer is fine). Then a few strokes with a nylon brush if it is exceptionally fouled. Then dry it out well from that, shoot it full of Gun Slick or Wipe Out foaming cleaner, give it 30 mins and push 2 or 3 dry patches through (this also doubles wonderfully as cool down time, which is IMPERATIVE for proper break in and barrel life in general). For a properly broken-in barrel, that will be all the cleaning necessary and very little elbow grease. If the barrel is still in the break in process or has been abused prior it may require 3 or 4 sessions of foam to get down to raw metal. I have seen barrels on guns that were never broken in or had the copper properly cleaned out that required DAYS of soaking to get clean. When you get no copper blue-green on the patch coming out the other end, its good to go!! Be very mindful of your muzzle crown, don't drag the rod over it. Better to butt the muzzle up against a wall or other solid surface and have the jag stop just short of exit and then barely force it out enough to free up the patch and VERY carefully pull it back through. More guns have their accuracy ruined by improper cleaning technique than any other single factor, including complete lack of cleaning. Hope this helped!!