There are lots of ways to get to the hole in golf. Some folks drive to the green off the tee, some go down the fairway, some use the cart path, some take a drop after slicing into the woods. Others find themselves in the sand or the water. I'm usually by the cart path with a $10 bill waiting for the beer cart girl to make it back around again. But no matter how you play it, the hole is in the same place for everyone.

This is the way I get to the hole... I think its about as straight a shot down the fairway, and as solid a way to set up a drop away rest as I have ever seen, and I've been doing it this way for a couple of years. You don't need a bow press or any special tools other than a set of allen wrenches, and perhaps a bow square if you don't have a calibrated eyeball.

So without further ado... here we go.

I used a 2009 Bowtech Admiral and a QAD Ultra Pro-Series HD for this demo. I set up every drop away in this manner. Only difference is a QAD locks in the up position. Doesn't matter what it is, this is a solid no slip no fuss way of doing it and making sure its right.

Step 1: Obviously opening the package. There are a lot of small parts involved. I've seen lots of creative ways of applying the adhesive silencers. I think I've got a good system (I use a filet knife), its complicated and the topic of another thread. But first and foremost, take the two sides of the clamp, the two nuts and four bolts/screws and securely place them here....




Step 2: Attach the rest to the bow itself. Almost every new bow these days is going to require the additional spacer in order to achieve proper center shot, so go ahead and put it in now. I like to set them up initially so that the rest, when laying flat, is just off the shelf. It all depends on exactly how/where your bow's berger holes are located as to how high/low your arrow will be sitting in relationship to the shelf. I always use the set screw also, but I take a small piece of rubber, usually from the spacers that come on Kwickee Kwivers and slide it in front of the set screw. That will protect your bow's finish from having those nasty set screw rings.











Step 3: Now that we have the rest on the bow, its time to start attaching the cord to the down-stroking cable. You can do this before or after establishing initial nock point and installing a loop. Since my focus was on the rest itself, I did this one before hand. Either way, doesn't matter. I leave the cord from the rest at full length to begin with, and I trim off just enough to make a melted ball. I leave mine in a real ball.. I don't flatten the end or anything like that. Of course, you have way more cord than you need at this point, but you can always trim more off... putting it back on is a much harder situation....







Step 4: Next, I tie a hitch knotjust exactly like you would for half of a D-loop for your release. Doesn't matter really which way it faces, I usually have mine facing the hand side of the cables. I wax (bowstring wax)about the last 4 inches of so of the cord so that it will seat good and tight. Pull it good and snug at the end, you'll still be able to slide it up and down the cables.












Step 5: Now you want to establish/determine exactly where you want the knot to sit. I use a grease pencil in either yellow or red color (heck a twist tie or rubber band will work in a pinch), and I like to position mine to stop about even with the bottom of the grip on the riser. You don't need much string or much travel, the length of the bow, the cam system and your draw will determine how much cord you'll actually need. But we are getting to that.



Step 6: Next, take about a yard of serving string. BCY nylon, or whatever will work. Doesn't really matter. We use 30# black braided fishing line at the shop. Nice and heavy, very very very fray and nick resistant, and its a lot less expensive at wholesale than serving material is. A spool of this stuff will last us a couple years.

I take the knot and mark with the grease pencil directly above the knot, and then slide it down the cable just to get it out of the way. That marking will dictate the BOTTOM of your topside serving, which is the most important side of it as this is where all the pressure is going to be. That clamp will slide over time, and loosen and its just a pain. What I do is tie overhand/half-hitch knots from that mark, about an inch to an inch and a half up the cable. I tie one on the right side, then take the strands around opposite sides of the cable and tie another, and go back and forth and back and forth. These are not those crappy doubled up loop knots that a lot of shops use that will give you that spiraled look!!! If you get that... you are tying them wrong.... think about the first step of typing your shoe laces... thats theknot you want to tie... don't overcomplicate it!!!!Those hitches pull againest each other, and they will not slide. It also looks much much cleaner in addition to functioning better and not putting any stress on your cable by sliding something between them (which as Vabowman found out the hard way... your cord end can and will pull through your cable when you need it the most... right Landon???)







Back and forth, back and forth... until your total knot is about an inch to an inch and a quarter in length.



Your finished product should look something like this below. This is the top half of the cord setting knot.



Got a reply post forthcoming for the rest of the set-up. I'm going to eat some lunch first.