I use a lansky for most of my sharpening. I use course, medium, fine and a leather strap to finish off the edge. On my hunting knifes I sharpen them at 20-25% fom tip to back, after I use them I touch them up with the medium and leather strap. For butcher or fillet knifes same process (at 17-20%), except sharpen from back to tip. All my knives will shave hair with little pressure. A couple of things to remember is keep the stones clear and oiled. The one thing I have found with lansky stones is they tend to plug up. So if I am needing to work over the blade to get my edge I will wipe it clean and re-apply oil. I prefer using honing oil for my hunting knifes and vegetable oil for my kitchen knives. Remember to apply even pressure and work your blade evenly with each stone per side. All to often I have seen guys nail one side with the course stone and then just touch the opposite side, keep count of total knife strokes per side and with each stone. It can make a huge difference!!!! If you are having a hardtime holding the lansky knife jig, buy yourself the lansky alum. break down stand. This doesn' t hold it tight, but will allow you more ability to get a straight edge & grip when starting out. They can be screwed down to a work bench or a piece of wood and clamped to a table or countertop. I think they cost like 10 bucks and are very handy when starting out, IMO a small price to pay.

Sharpening a knife with those accusharps or similar will ruin a good knife quick, they take to much steel and you' ll find yourself having to resharpen half way through a job. I used to carry one in my fishing bag and it ruined my fillet knife, since then I wouldn' t even consider drawing a blade across one. Yes they work and appear to deliver easy and instant results, but come with the price of replacing knives and actually give poor lasting results.