ORIGINAL: LittleChief
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
ORIGINAL: GMMAT
Then the only "kick" one might expect (if the bow was set up for a different type shooter) would be a kick up or down?
I would assume side to side would indicate spine issues, correct???
Yep.
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
Hey, Matt...... is that something you learned after you sold me the Montana?? There's no "trough".... it's all one piece. Also, I'm shooting split fingers and you had it tillered for three under. Should I have changed something? I don't know, but I'm hitting well with it now. I'm afraid to change anything. Still.... let me know.
Chief,
Yeah that's something I started doing a little bit after that.......some bows I've tried definitely shot cleaner after I split the pad and strike plate, and it IS easier on the shelf side feather.
That Montana honestly was a freak of a thing. It shot straight no matter what I did to it. I also messed around split finger and 3 under and it was still the easiest tuning traditional bow I've had and very tolerant to varying arrow spines/tip weights.
My $1000+ dollar Morrison didn't tune as easily as that Montana![:-]
As long as it is shooting straight don't change a thing on that bow! LOL
Seriously it's just one of those bows that doesn't care too much what you do to it.
You're fine.