1. For large rifle cases, I figure about 125 out of a pound of powder. For 300 WSM, that is only about 100.

2. I figure 10, but I'm anal about not over resizing. Also, you can anneal case necks to make brass go for longer.

3. Not for rifle hunting loads. I guess I would avaid brass which comes out of an HK rifle due to it's fluted chamber. Ususally brass issues are related to cylindrical consistency. Sometimes there is a softness issue causing loose primers. Free brass is usually best for cost efficiency. . . .or once fired brass from a scrounger.

4. I just keep them together and when one goes bad, they all hit the bucket. I do label the box as to how many times they've been reloaded.

5. Yea, it is kind of. I first look for the fastest for a given caliber, then I look at peoples reviewsabout consistency over a temp range(basically are competative shooters using it?), then I try to match my barrel length to the one shown in the manual. For example, if a manual shows powder A to have a fast velocity at a low pressure with a 24" barrel, it should continue to build pressure and go faster with my 26" barrel. If it reaches max pressure in a 24" tube,it will probably over pressure in a longer tube and I will have to back off. Also, I tend to use a faster powder in a shorter tube and a slower poder in a longer tube.