Okay... Take a length of string, long enough for you to stretch over the axles (the steel pins that run through your cams and attach them to the limbs). Have someone hold the string tight for you while you take a measurment at each end of the riser. You want to measure from the angle where the limb meets the riser to that string. The measurements should be the same on each end of the riser. If they aren't, you have to adjust it.

Tightening the limb bolt will shorten the measurement. Backing off on the limb bolt will lengthen the measurement.

When you get those measurements equal, you've gotten your basic tiller adjustment. This is one of the most basic first steps to any good tune job. It has to be done before the nock point is set. Anyway, once you're at that point, THEN loosen your loop and move it so your arrow is square to the string and riser.

If you don't have a bow square to set your nocking point accurately, then get one. An archer without a bow square is like a doctor without a stethoscope.

After you do that, the bow will need to be tuned again. Paper tuned, if that's your favorite tuning method.

Or, what I'd be really tempted to do, take the bow back to the shop that tuned it for you and tell them to do it again, but to set the tiller and tune it right this time. NEVER accept a tune job where they finish up and the nockset is below square. Nock slightly high - like 1/8" or so - is okay, but it should never, ever be below square.