The cams should still rotate exactly the samebecause you are not changing anything with the string or cable lengths.
After tuning, my bows generally measurebetween 3/16" -1/4" closer on the bottom end of the riser than they do on the top. It changes the way the string lays in relation to the riser - which in turn causes the nocking point to move in relation to the rest -butI don't see how it could possibly affect your cam rotation enough to cause problems.
A big difference between me and the gentleman you mention is that he is confident the factory exactly matches each and every set of limbs to the same strength, and that neither limb will require more or less force than the other to bend equally under the strain of shooting. I am not so confident... or naive.... to believe the factory is that thorough.Plus, his thought process doesn't take the shooter into account at all.
What does having the tiller set equal at each end of the riser really do? Is the grip in the exact center of the riser? If so, the arrow rest is not. Is the arrow rest in the exact center of the riser? If so, then the grip is not. Either way, the tiller will require some compensation. See, I don't know why having the tiller measure exactly equal on each end of the riser is given so much importance. What does it do for you when you're shooting? During the draw? What does it do for the arrow when the string is powering it forward?
The dynamics of the shot - taking bow, arrow and archer all into account -are what needs to determine tiller, not some arbitrary measurement while the bow is sitting idle at brace height. This conceptis nothing new. It's as old as bow making. Only difference with compounds isyou don't have to scrape away excess woodin order to balance the power between the limbs. You just tweak a bolt a little.
The good thing about this is, if for some reasonit doesn'twork or you decide youdon't like the way your bow feels, then all you've got to do is crank that limb bolt right back to where it was and forget I ever mentioned it.
