I don't even use a brass nock, I just use the loop. In my opinion it sort of defeats the purpose of the string loop if you are going to use a brass nock anyway. And I agree with Tfox, if you are going to use one, put it above not below.

Your starting nock point is just a reference anyway, you don't need to agonize over it. Most people start at level to 1/8 of an inch high for a start. And you have to know where the middle of your arrow will be when the rest is in the full up position.

Once you start tuning you will probably have to adjust it anyway (which is why I don't mess with the brass nock, and the weight). My bowtech ended up being pretty nock high, you can even see it at full draw. However it tunes just fine so I don't worry about it. My darton with the CPS cams was dead on 90 degrees with a loop and release.

I'm probably not the norm of most people. I started out being really technical and using all the real cool gizmos and agonizing about my initial set up. After a few years of doing it though I just eye ball most of it now since I know I will be going to tune it and adjust it anyway.

In my opinion initial set up and paper tuning is only verifying that something is not way off from the get go so your actual tuning process will go smoother.

The important thing is to not go nock low, that can be a pain in the butt to correct because it can show up as other things while tuning.

I have also found a lot of times when I set up a drop a way it ends up being a bit nock high compared to the same arrow and bow with a prong or spring rest.

My opinions anyway.

Paul