It looks like you have a 60" AMO bow, 40# pull at 28" (40@28). Depending on your shooting style, you may draw a couple inches less than you do on a compound to about the same. Start by picking an anchor point that is directly under your eye--this will line you up left and right.I like to use an upper tooth for an anchor point, as it won' t move (at least not as long as you behave).

Draw the bow to your anchor and have someone mark the arrow for you at the back of the riser. Do this several times to make sure you get a true measurement, then allow an inch or two in case you make some changes in your style or anchor--you can always cut the arrows off again if you want, but it' s a bugger to make them longer. This will give you your draw length. You don' t put on a longer string for a longer draw. If you draw much over 28" , you are probably going to feel the bow stack--the only solution is going to a different bow--but you can shoot that one.

I' m not too up-to-date on aluminum arrows, but I believe 2216' s are going to be too stiff with 100 grain points--you can go with a heavier point to reduce the effective arrow spine and get better flight if needed. Feathers are appropriate, as they will not cause the arrow to deflect as it passes the riser like vanes will.

Start close, work on form--consistant anchor, release, and follow through. Don' t be concerned with the bull' s-eye until you are consistant. Try canting the bow to get the arrows over.

I like Byron Ferguson' s " Become the Arrow" for some good pointers on shooting. It' s short, easy to read, and to the point. Don' t worry about trying to follow it word-for-word, just use the basics and go with what works for you. I don' t agree with the section on wooden arrows, but there is a lot of great information that should get you on the right track as far as your shooting goes.

Good luck!

Chad