Here is what dave cousins has to say about overspined arrows.[align=left]

Tips.
Arrow setup.

The reason for the heavy point is to get the arrow to spine correctly for my set up. Under normal standards the 2512 and 2315 would be too stiff at proper shaft length and recommended point weight.
Due to the fact we are only able to shoot 60 lbs. max for FITA I have to weaken the shaft in order to shoot one as large in diameter as the 25xx and 23xx. I use three ways to weaken or stiffen a shaft so that it performs well from my bow with out adjusting the draw weight.
1. Shaft length, the longer a shaft is the weaker it will react off the bow. The opposite is true for a shorter shaft.
2. Point weight, the heaver a point is the weaker it will make a shaft react off the bow. The opposite is true for a lighter point.
3. Fletching, The lighter you fletching is the weaker it will make the shaft react off the bow. The opposite is true for heaver fletching.
Finding out what works for you is what it’s all about. There are two schools of thought on setting up indoor arrows.
1. The first school of thought, you spine them to your set up in order to get the most forgiven arrow you can
2. The second school of thought, you don’t spine them at all and shoot the biggest diameter shaft at the shortest length you can get away with as little fletching and point weight as possible and let form be your guide.
With the second method only perfect shots will go in the middle. I prefer the first school of thought because no one is perfect all the time and I don’t mind having a little slop.
Of course there is a third school of thought on this. It’s the one that states you should shoot the arrow that best matches your set up regardless of diameter.
But then you run the risk of being made fun of by your shooting buddies when they notice your shooting much smaller arrows than them!














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