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Thread: Heavy Barrel
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Old 01-23-2008, 05:26 PM
  #9  
Chadsgna
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 16
Default RE: Heavy Barrel

Hey, the only reason that you have more surface area out side doen't mean that the heat is immediately dissapated. Because the barrel is thicker there is more metal to absorb more heat, and technically (check your physics - or atleast make a competent statement based on more than just what one book says, try talking to an expert that uses Bull barrels on a daily basis for shooting and has competed with a firearm with a bull barrel) the heat is dissapated at the same rate as the heat has to travel outward (it expands and anyone who argues with that is not worth talking too). As heat passes through the barrel the barrel expands - right? I have studied this a believe me that as far as bullets are concerned there are some pretty tight tollerances on diameter - right? When metal gets hot it expands - right? Then it is conclusive (as well as proven fact) that the bore of the rifle swells as well, and as it swells (because the out side of the barrel is going to be a few degrees cooler than the bore) it makes it tighter for the bullet to travel down the bore of the barrel (thus more friction) which causes more heat to need to be dissapated and the process continues on and on .... If the process is not stopped and time allowed for the barrel to cool - eventually you will burn out your riflings (which with out those you HAVE NO ACCURACY at a range beyond 25 yards) and think hard and actually do you homework on it -if metal gets hot enough, does it not become softer? Softer metal means that there is oportunity for warping (try an experiment on one if you don't believe me - heat it up with as many shots as possible and keep on shooting and see what happens). As for harmonics, they are not totally gone on a bull barrel but I can promise you that a regular barrel (standard hunting barrel) can't even come close to a bull barrel at bench rest shooting. You will notice a HUGE difference in the shot groups. Just float the barrel the thickness of a dollar bill to within 2 inches of the action and then you won't have to worry about harmonics on a bull barrel (it allows the harmonic to pass without effecting your shot) as well as it allows the wood stock to warp and shrink depending on humidity levels. Don't panic its so little that you can't hardly notice it, but it does effect your accuracy. These points can be argued all day long because of some ancient misconceptions born out of ignorance. It all boils down to - if you are the owner of a rifle with a bull barrel, do your homework on it or your new rifle will dissapoint you very quickly. Some guys advice is very liberal, some very conservative, I try to lean down the middle but mostly I lean towards error on the side of caution (the bull barrels are faily expensive). All I'm getting at is would you rather take your chances that I'm wrong and fire shot after shot without cool down time and possibly ruin your accuracy because the barrel gets destroyed and has to be replaced (depending on the rifle some barrels can run about $300). Or would you rather error on the side of caution and try to preserve your accuracy and barrel. I suggest that if you intend on shooting a lot of rounds back to back very quickly, that you go with a cheap barrel so that you can continueto replace it on a regular basis. If anyone still doesn't believe me, go buy a bull barrel, shoot lots of rounds very quickly, and do it for a couple of days a week. Be sure to use paper targets to keep track of your accuracy. Then come back in a couple of months and tell me what happened. I've had it happen to me twice before I researched and figured out what happened.
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