This should be of help to you should you want to FF your dog yourself. It really isn't all that hard to do, it's just very time consuming.

Force Fetch

I work the whole process with Objects, Bumpers & Birds. Starting with HOLD. Once the dog gets the command figured out, then start inserting different objects to Hold or Fetch.

(1) Wooden Dowel
(2)1" piece of PVC 12" long, w/ about 3" of Treated 4 X 4 on each end.
(3)1" piece of PVC 9" long, w/ about 3" of Treated 4 X 4 on one end of it. (Makes the work to hold it)
(4) 12" of Galvanized Pipe, wrapped in tape.
(5) 8" Tire Washing Bristol Brush. (Coarse Bristol's)
(6) 2" & 3" Black Bumpers. I NEVER use the same color that I work dogs with.
(7) Frozen Pigeons, Teal, & Mallards. Progress in size as they catch on. I usually have a Lesser or Snow Goose for the dogs that I know are going to Goose Hunters. Don't want the size to make them wonder.
(8) Rarely Use except on Hard Mouth Dogs. 2" X 10" PVC wrapped in Barb Wire, with the points rounded off. This along with the 8" Tire Washing Bristol Brush will usually stop the hard mouthing and Chomping Dogs.

But on a normal dog, I go through these objects as they are listed, with the birds being the last thing in every new step. But I work ALL of these objects on HOLD also.

FORCE FETCH (Ear Pinch)

Put a collar on the dog so you have something to hold onto. I slip my last 3 fingers through the collar, and use the index finger and thumb to hold onto the ear. This allows you to control his head, and move him to places you want his head to go. This helps with the teaching. You can lead him to the desired position, which allows you to not have him under pressure, while he try's to figure out what you want. It doesn't take long for him to get the idea with pressure on his ear. You will need a good thumb nail or I use a Shotgun shell. Slip the shotgun shell brass under (Inside) his ear and pinch the ear between the Brass Rim and your thumb. As you start the process, be looking for a tender place in the dogs ear. It will keep you from having use much pressure, but still give the dog a REAL need to get the bumper in his mouth.

(1) Then when teaching Fetch, I start the dog off with his head collared to my Table Post, and feet handcuffed to the table top. This keeps me from having to chase him around, while also keeps their paws from fighting you. The less the dog can fight, the easier it is to focus their mind set. Command FETCH, and many times the dog will YEP and offer a time to slip the Dowel in his mouth. As soon a dowel is in his mouth release pressure, but do not let go of Dowel or Ear. He will try to spit the Dowel out, shake his head, and any number of things to get you to let go, so he can get the dowel out of his mouth. I use my right hand to hold the dowel. There is a “V” under his muzzle, and will allow you to stick you thumb, which will allow you to hold on better, and not let him throw you off. With the thumb in the “V”, you can put you index and middle finger around the side of his muzzle and hold the Dowel in between the two fingers. You should be in pretty good shape here, and if the dogs is rigged to where he can’t run around or move very far you can hold this position. You will have better success with the dog, and he will think that it is not you hurting him, if you don’t have to fight him all around an area. This is why a place that you can secure the dog is going to be in your best interest. HOLD the dowel in his mouth until the dog quits squirming. It might not need to be but for just 3-4 seconds at first, then command DROP, and remove the Dowel. Give his 30 seconds of petting and praise, and repeat the same thing. It will take some days, but you will see the dog start holding the Dowel a little better after the Ear Pinch pressure is released. They don’t like the Pinch, so it doesn’t get to much better. But they do learn how to turn off the pressure. It just takes some weeks. Always have you ear ready to Pinch at the drop of a hat. When the bumper comes out of his mouth, apply the pressure, until the Dowel is back in his mouth. Even if he jerks his head, and make you drop the dowel, apply pressure until the dowel is back in his mouth. There is ONLY 1 way that there is NOT to be pressure. And that is if you command DROP, and take it from him. Once he start to get a understanding of what you are wanting. The dog will start anticipating and grabbing for the dowel, before the command. This is what you want. If he anticipates, command NO, then don’t give the command FETCH or the pinch. Just relax, and come at him again. They will try to anticipate the command for a while, but don’t let them do that. This is a command, not the dog deciding that if he has the dowel in his mouth he is safe. I start off with the Wooden Dowel on most of these, then progress to the pipe wrapped in tape. This keeps him from getting the biting or a nervous mouthing, like using a bumper will allow. Once he starts Fetching on command, I go through ALL of Objects listed above before I let him lose from the post.

(2) Then while still on the table, with short lead wrapped around the post to keep him from moving up and down the table. Basically just sitting in front with me putting the object in his face, we go through Fetch with ALL the Objects again. All we have really done is changed positions, but it is the point that the dog is learning to shut of the pressure. The dog will start seeing that Pawing, Biting, Squirming, won't help. It takes the object in the mouth to Shut Off The Pressure.

(3) Then while sitting in front of me, I start dropping the object to the bottom of his Chests using ALL the objects. I am looking to make him move his head to FETCH the object. You will be surprised to how little you can make a position adjustment, and the dog thinks you are doing something completely different. So you make small adjustments as you work through this process.

(4) Then fetching with the objects laying on the table. Now he is having to pick them up from the table. Don't start out with something that lays flat on the table, It needs to set up off the table a little to allow the dog to get hold of it. Place the object right down in front of him, Command fetch, and lead his head down to the object. Once he get the concept, then you can lay Dowels, and bumpers flat on the table. From this point on, I usually start with the (1" piece of PVC 12" long, w/ about 3" of Treated 4 X 4 on each end) which will allow the dog to get hold of it quickly and shut off the pressure. Once they know what you want, they CAN pick up a bumper laying flat on the table, but until they learn what you want, the pressure on the ear make them to excited. Again, I work through ALL the different objects.

(5) Then he is hooked up to the Over Head Pulley so he can move up and down the table freely. Place the object (1" piece of PVC 12" long, w/ about 3" of Treated 4 X 4 on each end) right down in front of him, Command fetch, and lead his head down to the object. When he picks it up off the table, I command HEEL and walk to the other end of the 16' Table. Now he is learning to move with the object in his mouth. If he drops it, don't pick it up unless it rolls of the table, or is out of his reach. He picks it up with the Ear Pinch. Then work through ALL the objects.

(6) Then with him still hooked up to the Pulley. I place an object (1" piece of PVC 12" long, w/ about 3" of Treated 4 X 4 on each end) down about 3' in front of him, and command Fetch with the ear pinch until he has the object in his mouth, release pressure, and command HEEL and have him return to the end of the table.

(7) Then move the object (1" piece of PVC 12" long, w/ about 3" of Treated 4 X 4 on each end) to 5' and repeat. By now you are getting him to move farther than you can Ear Pinch as fast as he is trying to move. You don't want to be holding him back while having pressure on the ear. Sends mixed signs. You want me to Fetch, but you are keeping me from it. So now it is time to introduce "Collar Fetch".
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