Easton shafts only. If you see other brands, they're probably nothing but Easton seconds with someone else's name on 'em.

I use Ferr-L-Tite hot melt for inserts and Fletchtite for fletching and nocks. That's all you need. Leave the glue pots to the folks who are making arrows wholesale. Some folks use epoxy for their inserts, but I like being able to warm up the hot melt glue andturn the inserts to fine tunemy broadheads.

If you've got a high speed abrasive wheel arrow saw for cutting carbon shafts, it'll work great on aluminums as well.

An arrow straightener is good to have on hand, if you want to save money. You can usually straighten a shaft back to factory specs with a little patience and some experience with the tool. A bad kink is impossible to remove, but a little bit of a bend is no problem. Who knows how many millions of arrows that have been thrown away when a little work on a straightener would have put them back right. Here's a good arrow straightener made by Apple. There are less expensive ones and will pay for themselves sooner than this one would, especially if you're not shooting aluminum exclusively, or are using some of the heavy, tougher aluminum shafts. They just don't get bent as easily as the thin walled light ones do.



To clean aluminum shafts for fletching, I've always just given them a good scrub with Ajax, Comet or some other scouring powder, but a cleaning with denatured alcohol or acetone works fine too.

That's about it. Pretty simple stuff and a lot easier to work with than carbon.