MossyOak722,
Since this is your first time around. Let me ask when this dog is not going to be hunting with you what's it's next job duty? family pet? Most sporting breeds spend more time as family pets vs actual working time because the seasons are only so long and unless you're involved in trials and tests then their only in training from there on until the season(s) start back up.
The more you surround yourself with experienced people and especially those with the same breed the better educated you will become and hopefully you won't make many mistakes. Find a local breed club or breeder that's involved in field trials or hunt tests.

We recommend crate training. They learn it's their "den", it's a safe place (especially when traveling) and it's always a positive. After genetics, obedience trainingis your foundation, everything else will come from that. We cross train our gun dogs and they're very happy. It gives them another job during the "off season". This is something the family can do with the gun dog, if it's just a jogging partner, agility or obedience. GSPs do very well with tracking tests too. Your dog can be anything you want with the right genetics/traits and training.

Some people believe that the dogs should not live in the house or they don't want a dog in the house. I have researched and found that there is notruth to the theory for a dog that lives out in a kennel to be a better bird dog vs one that lives in the home.
Consistency is the key. Setting ground rules for the dog in the home is the best solution. We don't allow family members or guests in our home to throw things for our dogs. Unless you're an authorized user of the gun dog then please don't do anything but pet the dog. Our dogs are not allowed to play tug of war,my obedience and agility friends think I am a Nazi. I ask if they likemeat withholes or without. Then they get the picture.If the guest can't follow then the dog goes in the crate or all "toys" are put upuntil the guest is gone. One person can come in and screw up weeks of training with the toss of a single ball.

Keep your training sessions short, simple and sweet. Use your voice for praise and correction. The tone is important. It's okay for a 200# guy to take an knee and give his best pup affection after a job well done and tell her what a good pup/job etc. It's okay for a 90# woman to stop a 55# dog on a dime with a strong, growling "NO!" when the dog starts to make a mistake or break.
Use positive reinforcement when you can. Teaching the pup to come when called, startin a confined space with treats, after several sessions, swap treats for praise and affection.

Dogs don't understand "punishment" they understand corrections from pack leaders. You have to shape a behavior/teach what is & isn'tallowedbefore you can make a correction. Minor offenses get a swat on the nose or rump. Greater ones get a scruffing just as their dam would do as infants. Capital offenses get the "come to Jesus meeting" which is an alpha dog (you) taking the offender to his back in a submissive position. The majority of the corrections are handed down in ways they understand (pack rules and roles).

Personally, I have had far better bonds with my dogs that have lived in the house than those who lived outside. These are the dogs that have meant the most and been the better hunting dog in my experience. Yes as older pups and dogs they occasionally get to sleep in the bed, after they have earned it. Especially on hunting trips, they're excellent foot warmers.

Hope this helps. Happy training and hunting.