VA,
Although your new rest LOOKS LIKE a conventional extreme overdraw, it does not BEHAVE like one........The fact that it is driven away quickly and that the arrow is only in contact with it for a short period of time lends itself MUCH better to shooting shorter arrows than the old Prong Style overdraws of a few years ago where tuning was a pain, and torque is a more serious issue to consistent arrow flight.......
That said, I always set my Zero Effects up to be as close to the riser as I can get it, for a few reasons.
1. I like the stability of a longer arrow, and at 30" neither you or myself NEEDS short arrows to gain speed.
2. I still like a broadhead tipped arrow a little further ahead on the arrow shelf at full draw for piece of mind........
3. The closer it is to the riser, the less chance of hanging it up in brush or limbs when you pull it into your treestand.

I' ve gotten to the point where I don' t install the overdraw shelf at all, or mount a seperate " Hoyt Plate" on all of my bows to get the hook arm as close as I can, and eliminate the extra weight of the overdraw assembly..........you really don' t need it at all.

If it were my bow....... I' d scrap the whole overdraw, re-adjust everything to get it as tight to the riser as I could,moleskin the entire hook and arrow shelf, and find myself some properly spined arrows of that weight in a 28.5-29.5" length(Finding a 29" carbon that finishes out at 410grs should be no problemo).