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Old 10-25-2007 | 08:18 AM
  #12  
Wilds
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 277
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From: Taking the high ground.....
Default RE: Refinishing rifle stock

ORIGINAL: stalkingbear

The reason I use 0000 steel wool,successfully I may add,is the fact that I DON'T use tru-oil (linseed oil) as it never hardens or cures completely 100%. The finishes I use do harden and steel wool on a completely cured finish coat leaves NO bits or fragments of steel behind. In almost 30 years of being gunsmith,I have experimented with numerous stock finishes. I did eventually discover what I consider the perfect finish. I blend tung oil,eurethane,and epoxy with bonding agent (only way to blend them) and air brush on/steel wool between coats.
I've not had steel wool remaining in finish for about 23-24 years now.


I must add that each coat takes 4 days to cure.
We're talking about BirchwoodCasey's Tru-Oil, linsead oil is only one ingredient.

Everyone knows it hardens, but hey, yer da pro.

On aside, the absolute best finish going, taught to me by asmith up in AK, is straight two part epoxy slathered on a stock heated to 120 degrees in an oven, sanded after cooling/curing, and thenseveral coats of Tru-Oil applied.

Not for the beginner, but hands down, tuff 'nuff for the ruff stuff..................
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