Yes Tru Oil can be applied over stain, VERY dry stain. You might want to reconsider though as Tru Oil nearly always darkens with age.

You can make it gloss, or you can make it satin...personally I can't dig a glossy stock for any reason.

Lots of ways to apply it, some are right, some are wrong, some are easy, some are hard.....sometimes therightest way is the hardest way.

Refinishing:

Strip old finishcompletely, sand down to at least 320 grit, further is better. You can "raise" the grain of the wood with a damp cloth and sand off the "fibers", or burn them off with a torch....but I stopped doing that when I realized it was a wasteof time.Now is the time to fix any problems with the checkering.Apply the first coat by rubbing some in with your bare skin, fingers, whatever...until it becomes "dry" to the touch. Do small patches of the stock so the stuffdoesn't get away from you. Dont let it "build up", use an old tooth brush to "clean it up" in the checkering. Once the whole stock is covered, it'll look like crap, no worries...set it aside to cure for a day or two. Once cured, sand it gently, not going too deep but just enough to smooth it all out again,with the same grit paper you did the final rawsand with...NEVER use steel wool.

Repeat the above, except for the grain raising thing (that's a one time deal),at least four more times, or until you can see with a strong light that the pores of the wood are "filled". When the 5th coat is applied, or when you decide thepores are filled...you put the sand paper away and don't touch it again. From here on out you are doing a "hand rubbed oil finish". At the this point you are starting to see the rewards of your work. The first five coats usually "fill" the grain and leave a smooth surface on which the final finish is applied.

The 6th coat, and beyond, is really quite simple. Slobber the Tru Oil onto the wood, within reason. Take a little care not to get it flooded into the checkering, if you do no big deal just use the tooth brush. Dabbing a little on the checkering with your finger tips and then vigorously working it inwith a toothbrush is all that's needed there.Coat the entire stock with a moderate slobbering of the oil. When, after a few minutes, the oil becomes ever so slightlytacky, use a clean cotton cloth to buff it back off. Buff it off quickly, and completely...until you can handle it and it doesn't feel sticky. Take care not to leave any "lint" stuckon the wood, if your cloth is flannel or some such. This is the crucial step...buffing the finish off. It takes a lot of elbow grease but it's how it's done.

As stated, you won't need to sand again..unless you mess up something, like leave a run or heavy spot, find a pore thats not filled, leave lint on the finish, ect. Tru Oil does not need to be sanded between coats in the final stages.

Take this as far as you want, I go at least thirty coats allowing each one to cure out for a day or two in between. What I end up with is a nice satin fiinish that glows but does not shine...perfectIMHO for a hunting rifle. I don't do glossy.

Once finished and completely cured I coat the stock with several coats of Johnsons paste wax...for water proofing insurance.

I'm sure others have their ways, this is mine and it works for me...........