LEE
Well that sounds like quite a project
No, not really - it took a couple of hours to sand and build the block... The shim project would take 15/20 minutes..
Do you have any ideas on what causes the problem
The biggest problem is the forearm in the stock is so flexible and it does move - I hate to use the word warp but I really think it sometimes does and puts an unequal amount of pressure on the barrel. - of course free floating takes care of the POI problem...
I am careful about not over tightening the stock to barrel screws.
That is exactly what I did, but that is what the local gun smith says probably caused the stock to crack. He was very vocal about the gun moving from recoil with lightly tightened screws. If the gun were bedded in a metal then the problem might not develope. This my second stock and I now tighten the screws very snug. With the hard wood block installed it will not matter that much the is no front back movement at all now even with the screws out.
my Triumph don't seem to like what I want for hunting loads it will shoot nice groups but they start to spread out when I go over 110 gr. Any ideas on how to get it to keep the group with a stronger load?
The reason, I would
speculate, is the "harmonic resonating" that the bullet sets up in the barrel. With the stronger charges the resonating is greater. What length barrel does the Triumph have? How is the barreled action set in the stock? I guess I am assuming that it is set in the same way as the Omega... so it really does not have a floating barrel and yet it really is not bedded or equal.
+Do you have a synthetic stock or a laminated?
If you want to experiment take a strip of the teflon cutting board and set it under the barrel @ the fore-end (between the barrel and the stock) this will increase the rigidity of the barrel and change the resonating. It will change you POI but it might tighten your group..
Just some thoughts but you are a whole more scoocum to this stuff than I.