I'll bite, from the other thread I tune nothing like you guys do. First I use aT square to center the string on the square and mark it[I have a mark for each bow on the squarebecause they are not the same]. Then put an arrow on the rest and center the arrow with the string from the mark on the square. I dont measure from the risor. Key point here: finger shooters should be outside of the string, rope release dead on the string, caliper release just inside the string. These are starting points! Nock point on the string dead flat, again starting point. Then shoot an arrow between 10 and 15 yds. If it hits the target dead on move back to 25. "Note I don't have a 20 or 30 yd pin, I use 25 & 40 yd pins." If it didn't hit straight make adjustments until it does, then move back to 25. If you have a 1" group at twenty five yards move back to 40yds. If the group is working move back to 50, then 60, then 70, then 80yds. At 80yds your group should be no bigger than 6". When you get here you are ready for broadheads."Note: my broadheads always hit a little left of my field tips, reason field tips 125gr and broadheads 130gr. At 25yds the distance left is about an inch, but this shouldn't change much at farther distances." If it is higher or lower ormore than an inchleft or right I move rest or nock point to get what I want. When braodheads are grouping like field points at 25yds I start moving back, 40 ,50, 60, 70, 80. When I am done the pins are straight up and down and I am shooting 6" groups at 80yds with broadheads. To me this is a tuned bow. If I have a broadhead arrow that refuses to comply with the rest. I try to tune that arrow by a number of means, change nock, tune broadhead, reglue vanes or what ever I can do. If I can't get it to comply, it gets refitted with a field tip or judo point.
Gselkhunter