It takes time to learn about things.

If the only bow you had ever seen was one that had been improperly stored in an overheated shed, chances are the nock would be too high, the strings stretched, and the cams severely out of time, and it would shoot poorly and be loud as hell when shot.

I try to steer people in the direction where they can get their equipment back to the state in which it was originally designed.

Hopefully people will have the prescience of mind to make the appropriate adjustment to their tackle and avoid the problems that may occur.

Just because a bowshould beset at its correct brace height, ATA, and correct cam rotation, at its maximum draw weight to be tuned; that doesn't mean you can't lower its weight to shoot it.

The point is you have to start somewhere. And establishing a baseline where you can't ask anymore from the limbs then what they were designed for is a pretty good place to start.

Most of todays bows are designed to be shot at an even tiller. And to launch an arrow level from an even tillered bow the best place to nock your arrow is at 90degrees to the bowstring.

The proof is in the shooting.

If you want to screw with the nockpoint to match the tiller, that can work too.

But if you can add or subtract tiller from either limb to achieve the same thing, why would you risk beating up the serving on your string to do it?

Good luck hunting! >>>------------>